| I live in Brussels, Belgium; however, I am a | | | | isolated, so you are almost obliged to eat |
| native of California. It used to be fun to | | | | where you decide to sleep. |
| watch the reaction of people here when I told | | | | |
| them this. Their eyes would almost glaze over | | | | The other possibility will cost less and give |
| and they would sigh, “If I ever visit | | | | you greater freedom. About 5 minutes beyond |
| the United States, it will have to be | | | | the junction of U.S. 89 and Highway12, you |
| California.” | | | | will find Panguitch. This town has a |
| | | | plentiful supply of motels, a number of |
| It used to be fun to watch this reaction. It | | | | restaurants, a supermarket and other shopping |
| isn’t any more, because I now feel like | | | | opportunities. |
| a traitor to my heritage. “If you ever | | | | |
| visit the United States,” I now say, | | | | Count on spending two days in Bryce Canyon, |
| ”there is better than | | | | and possibly three if you simply can't tear |
| California.” | | | | yourself away, before going on to your next |
| | | | destination. So book your motel accordingly. |
| Certainly, Joshua Tree, King’s Canyon, | | | | |
| Sequoia, Yosemite and other natural splendors | | | | When you decide to move on, resist the |
| in California are well worth seeing. And Los | | | | temptation to return to the interstate for a |
| Angeles (my hometown), San Diego, San | | | | quick trip to Canyonlands and Arches in |
| Francisco, and Sacramento are exciting | | | | eastern Utah. This is about a 4-5 hour drive |
| cities. However, what you will see in Utah | | | | from Panguitch along a comfortable, |
| will literally blow your mind. | | | | high-speed superhighway. The problem is, you |
| | | | see practically nothing of interest along the |
| Utah? Yes, Utah. Plus a little bit of Arizona | | | | way. |
| and Nevada. But principally Utah. | | | | |
| | | | Rather, take Highway 12 back past Bryce |
| I didn’t come to this conclusion | | | | Canyon towards Capital Reef National Park. |
| lightly. I was led to it several years by a | | | | Highway 12, one of the most scenic routes in |
| Belgian friend who had recently returned from | | | | the U.S., will offer you sights as remarkable |
| a vacation in the U.S. and was showing me his | | | | as any you will see in the parks themselves. |
| photos, particularly of Bryce Canyon (western | | | | The temptation to stop frequently to take |
| Utah). They were blindingly beautiful. With a | | | | pictures will be overwhelming. |
| smile of knowing superiority, I chuckled a | | | | |
| bit and said, “Look, I know something | | | | Stopping at Capital Reef: A Capital Question |
| about photography. I know how such pictures | | | | |
| can be arranged.” | | | | Should you actually stop at Capital Reef? |
| | | | |
| “I didn’t arrange them,” he | | | | Everything depends on how much time you have |
| replied. “In Bryce Canyon, all you have | | | | available. Like all the national parks, |
| to do is close your eyes, point your camera | | | | Capital Reef is splendid. But to my mind, it |
| anywhere. And this is what you get!” | | | | is one of the least spectacular (there are |
| | | | there degrees of spectacular). |
| I took him up on the challenge. A few months | | | | |
| later, I went to visit family in Las Vegas, | | | | The best thing is to follow Highway12 to |
| then rented a car and headed north into Utah. | | | | Torrey, which is just outside of Capital |
| First stop after driving through the barren | | | | Reef, and check in some place. There are |
| Nevada desert was Zion Canyon National Park. | | | | plenty of motels and some local restaurants. |
| Exceedingly green, even exceedingly | | | | By leaving Panguitch by 9 a.m., you can |
| beautiful, but not exactly what I would call | | | | arrive in Torrey in plenty of time to see |
| spectacular. Two hours further on, I saw | | | | part of Capital Reef that day. The next day |
| Bryce Canyon National Park and simply | | | | you return for a second look, then in the |
| didn’t believe my eyes. “This | | | | afternoon move on towards Arches and |
| just can’t be!” I gasped. I spent | | | | Canyonlands. |
| the whole day exploring the place, still | | | | |
| gasping and still not believing my eyes, | | | | Highway 24, which leads from Capital Reef |
| | | | towards Arches and Canyonlands, has many |
| I have now seen Bryce Canyon seven times, and | | | | attractive sights along the way. So keep your |
| always with the same unalloyed amazement. I | | | | camera ready and don’t hurry. |
| admit to having a particular weakness for the | | | | |
| park’s indescribably tangerine-orange | | | | Highway 24 joins the I-70 at a place called |
| symphonies in stone, thousands of | | | | Green River. You will still be about an |
| them—literally. But my reaction to | | | | hour’s drive from Moab, the local |
| Arches, Canyonlands, Capital Reef, and | | | | metropole and the so-called “Gateway to |
| Natural Bridges national parks, all in Utah, | | | | Arches and Canyonlands”. However, |
| come reasonably close. | | | | unless you have a particular reason for going |
| | | | to Moab, don’t. |
| If there is truly an enchanted land anywhere | | | | |
| on earth, Utah must be it. | | | | Considerably smaller than Moab, Green River |
| | | | has a wide selection of motels and four or |
| Now knowing the region reasonably well, I | | | | five restaurants. On average, you will find |
| would like to propose an easy itinerary for | | | | the motels about 20 - 25% cheaper in Green |
| first-time visitors, with some personal tips | | | | River and you should have little trouble |
| you probably won’t find in guidebooks. | | | | finding one, whereas in Moab, depending on |
| This will not be a fixed itinerary, except | | | | the season and the time you get there, you |
| for the first few stops. Everyone has | | | | may have to look around a bit. Both North |
| different interests, and time and money to | | | | Canyonlands (known as “The Island in |
| spend on them. So beyond the absolutely key | | | | the Sky”) and Arches are only about an |
| things to see and do, you will be on your | | | | hour’s drive from Green River. |
| own. | | | | |
| | | | Before you read any further, I should warn |
| How to Win In Las Vegas | | | | you this itinerary does not include the world |
| | | | famous Grand Canyon. There is a good reason |
| Start your vacation in Las Vegas. If you have | | | | for this. North Canyonlands has a section |
| never been there before, it is well worth | | | | right near the entrance that looks very much |
| seeing. If you have been there before, you | | | | like the Grand Canyon. If you have never seen |
| will probably want to see it again, because | | | | the Grand Canyon, Canyonlands offers a |
| it is constantly changing. | | | | convincing substitute. And you will not need |
| | | | to spend two precious days to go see the real |
| Since it has become such a popular tourist | | | | thing! |
| attraction (just under 40 million visitors a | | | | |
| year), Las Vegas is no longer the | | | | South Canyonlands |
| unbelievably cheap oasis it used to be. | | | | |
| However, it is still very good value. | | | | Your next stop will be South Canyonlands |
| | | | (also known as “The Needles”), |
| Plan to arrive on a weekday (Monday - | | | | which is about a two-hour drive from Green |
| Thursday). On the weekend, hotel prices can | | | | River and a one-hour drive from Moab. But |
| zoom to double and often triple what they are | | | | don’t hurry. The road that leads from |
| during the week (Friday, Saturday, and for | | | | Moab to South Canyonlands offers a number of |
| some hotels, Sunday). | | | | photo opportunities. |
| | | | |
| You can take full advantage at any time | | | | You will probably want to stay in Monticello. |
| (weekdays and weekends) of LV’s lavish | | | | This town is much smaller than Moab, more |
| buffets for practically nothing. The | | | | like Green River, with a reasonable |
| different hotels ferociously compete with | | | | assortment of motels and restaurants. Be |
| each other to put on the best possible | | | | certain to ask directions to the Mormon |
| spreads at the lowest possible prices. Why? | | | | Temple, a few streets off the main road but |
| The theory is, when you come into a hotel to | | | | well worth the detour. |
| eat, whatever they may lose by lavishly | | | | |
| feeding you, they will more than recuperate | | | | If you leave Green River or Moab by 9 a.m., |
| by what you drop in the casino. | | | | you should arrive in Monticello before noon. |
| | | | The entrance to South Canyonlands is several |
| Avoid the trap. Enjoy the bargain in the | | | | kilometers before you arrive in Monticello, |
| buffet and keep you hands in your pockets as | | | | so you might want to spend a few hours in the |
| you pass through the casino. In most hotels, | | | | park first. This way, you can then decide |
| they only way to get to the buffet is through | | | | whether or not you want to return the park |
| the casino, specifically to tempt you! | | | | the next morning or immediately move on. |
| | | | |
| If you are going to gamble and think you can | | | | Natural Bridges and a Breathtaking Overlook |
| win, play poker. Avoid black jack, roulette, | | | | |
| baccarat, and certainly the one-armed bandits | | | | When you leave Monticello, head south on U.S. |
| (slot machines). | | | | 191 towards Blanding and the junction with |
| | | | Highway 95, then turn west. Here you will |
| What’s the difference? | | | | find two sights seldom mentioned in travel |
| | | | guides. The first is Natural Bridges National |
| When you play poker, you are pitting your | | | | Monument. Like Capital Reef, it is less |
| skill only against the others at the table. | | | | spectacular than some other attractions, but |
| If you are sufficiently good, you can walk | | | | well worth the visit. |
| away with a bundle; the casino simply rents | | | | |
| the space and couldn’t care less who | | | | A few kilometers from Natural Bridges, turn |
| wins and loses. However, if you play any | | | | south on Highway 261 to one of the most |
| these other games, you are playing | | | | awesome sights you will ever see. The road |
| “against the house”. The casino | | | | seems to abruptly end at a sheer cliff that |
| cares very much who wins and loses, you or | | | | drops several hundred meters towards Monument |
| them. So they fix things so that the loser | | | | Valley, but gives the impression of diving |
| will always be you. Always. | | | | straight to the centre of the Earth. |
| | | | |
| Don’t believe it? There is no secret | | | | The road does not actually end here, but |
| about it. Virtually every casino has signs | | | | descends the cliff to the plain below. You |
| shouting something like “We give you | | | | may be reluctant to make this apparently |
| the best odds in town: 98%!” This is LV | | | | perilous journey on a gravel road. However, |
| code that means ”For every 98 times you | | | | there are long, slow switchbacks all the way |
| win, we win 100 times.” | | | | down, making the descent easier than it may |
| | | | look. |
| Saying that the games are fixed doesn’t | | | | |
| mean that the dice on the craps table are | | | | But what about getting back up again? |
| loaded or that the croupier has a secret | | | | Don’t worry. Once at the bottom you can |
| button to control the spinning of the | | | | drive along Highway 163 back to U.S. 191 and |
| roulette wheel. It’s the rules that are | | | | a gentle rise back towards Blanding. |
| fixed. | | | | |
| | | | This will be a decision point. You can now |
| In black jack, for example, the dealer first | | | | head east about 130 kilometers to Mesa Verde, |
| distributes two cards to each player, | | | | with spectacular scenery and the remains of |
| including himself. Anyone whose cards add up | | | | Indian cliff dwellings. Or you can head south |
| to 21 automatically wins; otherwise the | | | | into Moment Valley, the Petrified Forest and |
| winner is the person (or persons) who come | | | | the Painted Desert. |
| closest to the magic number 21 without going | | | | |
| over it. Imagine that your first two cards | | | | However, if you are now beginning to doubt |
| add up to 14, so you ask for another card. It | | | | that what you saw at Bryce Canyon was real (I |
| is a 10, bringing your total to 24. You have | | | | have seen it seven time and I still have |
| gone over 21 (you have gone bust), so the | | | | doubts), you can take Highway 95 beck towards |
| dealer collects your bet. The dealer is | | | | Capital Reef. Highway 95 is every bit as |
| always the last to play. Suppose he also goes | | | | interesting and photogenic as is Highway 24 |
| bust. What happens? Nothing. He still keeps | | | | between Capital Reef and Green River. |
| your bet. So even though the dealer loses, | | | | |
| the casino still wins! | | | | After leaving Bryce Canyon for the second |
| | | | time, you may be looking for an interesting, |
| It is like this with all the other games | | | | inexpensive place for R & R (rest and |
| where you play against the house. The rules | | | | relaxation). Stop in Mesquite. This is the |
| are fixed to guarantee that sooner or later | | | | last gambling oasis in Nevada before crossing |
| the casino will take your money. | | | | into Arizona and Utah. Still a small town |
| | | | (but rapidly growing), Mesquite has only a |
| Knowing that you are going to lose—get | | | | handful of big casino hotels, which in their |
| it firmly into your head that you are going | | | | own way rival many in Las Vegas at about half |
| to lose—the only reason for gambling is | | | | the price. |
| to have fun. If you enjoy playing black jack, | | | | |
| craps, roulette, etc., go right ahead. But | | | | As you head down the I-15 back towards LV, |
| choose the lowest possible bet. You can have | | | | swing off for 2-3 hours in The Valley of |
| just as much fun losing $10 as you can losing | | | | Fire, a Nevada state park well worth the |
| $100, probably a lot more. | | | | detour. |
| | | | |
| If your objective is to win at these games, | | | | Another possibility. If time permits, take |
| stay as far away from Vegas as you possible | | | | the I-15 straight through LV towards |
| can. As the joke goes: How can you leave Las | | | | Laughlin, about 1½ hours south. |
| Vegas with a $1 million in your pocket? Easy. | | | | Laughlin is the last gambling oasis on |
| Arrive with $5 million. | | | | Nevada’s southern border. There are |
| | | | several advantages to spending a couple of |
| First Stop: Zion Canyon | | | | days there. |
| | | | |
| To get back to the real world, it’s | | | | 1. To get to Laughlin, you must pass by |
| time to move north to Utah. | | | | Hoover (Bolder) Dam and Lake Mead, both worth |
| | | | a look-see. |
| Foreign visitors should know that the | | | | |
| American highway system is divided between | | | | 2. Laughlin is on the Colorado River, so if |
| federally financed highways and state | | | | you like water sports, you will be very much |
| financed highways. Both classes are usually | | | | in your element. |
| high quality and easy to drive, with federal | | | | |
| highways tending to be wider with more lanes. | | | | 3. The river is the border with Arizona and |
| | | | California, so if you have never been to |
| Federal highways are shown on signs in the | | | | California and insist on setting foot in the |
| shape of a shield. There are two categories | | | | Golden State, it is just a few minutes away. |
| of federal highways, designated | | | | |
| “Interstate” or | | | | 4. Because Laughlin, like Mesquite, is not a |
| “U.S.” plus a number. In | | | | highly publicized tourist attraction, its |
| conversation, the names are often | | | | hotels are very much less expensive than |
| abbreviated, so that Interstate 1 becomes | | | | those Las Vegas. You will especially |
| I-1, Interstate 2 becomes I-2, etc. U.S. | | | | appreciate the difference on the weekend, |
| highways remain U.S. 1, U.S. 2, etc. | | | | when a $60 hotel in LV can easily go to |
| | | | $140-170, whereas an equivalent hotel in |
| State highways are identified by the | | | | Laughlin at $35 may move up to $70-85. |
| state’s name plus a number, and shown | | | | |
| on signs depicting the state emblem. Utah, | | | | Final Tips for Foreign Visitors |
| for example, is known as the “beehive | | | | |
| state”, so its highways are show on | | | | The United States tends to “march to a |
| signs in the form of a beehive. Within a | | | | different drummer”. Things there are |
| state (because you know where you are), it is | | | | done differently. You have already noticed |
| common practice to drop the state name and | | | | that rooms in hotels and motels generally do |
| simply say Highway 1, Highway 2, Highway 3, | | | | not include breakfast, which is quite |
| etc. | | | | different from the practice in many other |
| | | | countries. Here are a few other things to |
| You will leave Las Vegas by heading north | | | | watch out for. |
| Interstate15 (I-15). Once in Utah, turn off | | | | |
| on Highway 9. Your first stop will be Zion | | | | 1. Posted vs. Final Prices |
| Canyon, about 4 - 5 hours from LV, where you | | | | |
| will probably want to spend the night. | | | | Local and state taxes are almost never shown |
| | | | in posted prices, so the price you see is |
| How to Find Comfortable, Inexpensive Lodging | | | | almost never the price you pay. This is true |
| | | | in hotels, motels, restaurants, department |
| Should you book motels ahead before you leave | | | | stores, etc. For example, if a motel shows |
| LV? Absolutely not! | | | | $55 a night for a double room, the final |
| | | | price is likely to be around $61. |
| One of the best things about touring the | | | | |
| western national parks is the sense of | | | | Why do they do things this way? The idea is |
| freedom and spontaneity it can give you. You | | | | that if people don’t know what they are |
| never know what is going to impress you the | | | | paying in taxes, they don’t know when |
| most, so you never know how long you may wish | | | | to get properly angry about them. Gasoline |
| to stay anywhere. Booking ahead regiments | | | | (commonly called “gas”) is an |
| you. | | | | exception; the posted price is the final |
| | | | price. |
| So how can you be certain of finding a | | | | |
| convenient and reasonably priced place to | | | | 2. Tipping |
| spend the night? Actually, it’s not | | | | |
| that difficult. | | | | “Service” in restaurants is |
| | | | almost never included in the price. The |
| Throughout the West there are motels galore, | | | | customer is expected to add this voluntarily |
| even in fairly remote areas. You can usually | | | | as a tip. Normally, the tip should be about |
| find a place to stay even in high season. The | | | | 18% of the bill (in a restaurant known as the |
| trick is to begin looking about 5 - 5:30 p.m. | | | | “check”). It is traditional to |
| The choice is likely still to be plentiful | | | | leave the tip in cash on the table. However, |
| and checking in no later than 6 p.m. gives | | | | if you pay by credit card, you can add it |
| you time to take a nap or a dip in the pool | | | | directly. Many people chose to do both, i.e. |
| before going out to eat around 8 p.m. then | | | | pay with a card but leave cash on the table. |
| returning to the motel about 10:30 - 11 p.m. | | | | |
| for a relaxing night’s sleep. | | | | Whatever you do, don’t forget the tip. |
| | | | Restaurant workers generally get a minimal |
| However, don’t become blasé | | | | wage, so they depend on their tips for their |
| about finding a room. In Utah, the high | | | | livelihood. Not tipping is equivalent to |
| season does not follow the late May - early | | | | stealing. |
| September convention when children are not in | | | | |
| school. In many places the high season | | | | 3. Metric – American conversions |
| extends into mid-October. | | | | |
| | | | If you are used to the metric system, you may |
| Don’t insist on being right at the | | | | find American measures confusing. Here are |
| entrance to the national parks. For example, | | | | some easy approximations. |
| the town of Springdale at the entrance to | | | | |
| Zion Canyon has numerous motels. But prices | | | | A. Weights |
| are high and in high season you may struggle | | | | |
| to find a room. Hurricane, a pleasant | | | | 1 pound (1 lb) = 0.45 kilo. To convert pounds |
| 35-minute drive from Zion, has many more | | | | to kilos, divide by 2, then subtract 1/10. |
| motels, with prices about half those in | | | | |
| Springdale, and a much broader selection of | | | | Example: Convert 6 lb to kilos. 6 / 2 - 0.3 |
| restaurants. | | | | (1/10 of 3) = 3 - 0.3 = 2.7 kg |
| | | | |
| Also, don’t automatically head for a | | | | For smaller weights such as in a restaurant: |
| brand-name motel. As the major motel chains | | | | 1 pound = 16 ounces, written 1lb = 16 oz. So |
| continue to spread their tentacles across the | | | | an 8 oz steak is 1/2 of 450 g = 225 g, a 12 |
| country (Motel 6, Super 8, Ramada, Holiday | | | | oz steak is 3/4 of 450 = 340 g. |
| Inn, Best Western, etc.), locally owned | | | | |
| motels are fighting for their lives. You can | | | | B. Distance |
| benefit from this. | | | | |
| | | | Some areas in the U.S. show distance in both |
| For example, my wife and I rolled into a | | | | miles and kilometers, but such places are |
| village looking for a place to stay. We were | | | | rare, so you will have to use miles. 1 mile = |
| particularly eager to go for a swim. The | | | | 1.6 km. For a good approximation, add half of |
| first sight we saw was a name-brand motel. It | | | | the mile distance, then add 1/10 to get |
| had a pool, but it wasn’t heated. We | | | | kilometers. |
| were in the late autumn, so the water | | | | |
| temperature was tolerable but not really | | | | Example: Convert 70 miles to kilometers. 70 + |
| inviting. I asked the price of a double room. | | | | 35 (1/2 of 70) + 7 (1/10 of 70) = 70 + 35 + 7 |
| It was $79. “That’s a bit beyond | | | | = 112 km. |
| our budget,” I said. “Oh, | | | | |
| that’s on the ground floor. If you go | | | | C. Temperature |
| up a floor, it’s $59.” That was | | | | |
| more to our budget, but since it was just | | | | Fahrenheit to Celsius: subtract 30, divide by |
| after 5 p.m., I said we would look around | | | | two, then add 1/10. |
| first, and maybe come back later. | | | | |
| | | | Example: Convert 88° F to Celsius. |
| About 2 kilometers down the road, we saw a | | | | 88° F - 30 = 58, divided 2 = 29. Now add |
| local motel. It was less spiffy because it | | | | 1/10 of 29.to give 29 + 2.9 = 31.9° C. |
| was not brand new, but it appeared to be | | | | |
| well-kempt. I asked the price: $42. The room | | | | Celsius to Fahrenheit: multiply by 2, add 30, |
| was more than acceptable, but the best part | | | | then subtract 1/10. |
| was that it had a heated indoor pool! After | | | | |
| luxuriating for an hour or so in the | | | | Example: Convert 32° C to Fahrenheit. |
| caressingly warm water, we went out for a | | | | 32° C x 2 = 64, plus 30 = 94, subtract |
| delicious meal in a nearby restaurant | | | | 3.2 (1/10 of 32) = 90.8° F. |
| recommended by the motel owner. All in all a | | | | |
| delightful—and | | | | D. Prices |
| money-saving—experience. | | | | |
| | | | Approximating prices is tricky because |
| For foreigners not familiar with the | | | | exchange rates constantly vary. Assume 1 euro |
| traveling in the U.S., you should know that | | | | = 1.3 dollars. Divide the dollar price by 2, |
| most motels do not serve breakfast. This is | | | | then add back half. |
| why a number of local restaurants (called | | | | |
| coffee shops) will be open, often from 6 | | | | Example: Convert 24 dollars to euros. 24 |
| a.m., where you can chose whatever you want | | | | divide by 2 + 6 (half of 12) = 12 + 6 = 18 |
| to start the day—eggs, bacon, waffles, | | | | euros. |
| pancakes, steak, oatmeal, etc. You may not | | | | |
| wish such a lavish breakfast every day, but | | | | Have a great trip. And be prepared to come |
| you should not disdain the idea. A hearty | | | | back. Because once you have been to Utah, |
| coffee shop breakfast is very much a part of | | | | it’s truly hard to stay away. For me, |
| the American travel experience. | | | | it is impossible. |
| | | | |
| On to Bryce Canyon | | | | Editor’s Note |
| | | | |
| About 1½ hours away from Zion Canyon | | | | Philip Yaffe is a former reporter/feature |
| is Bryce Canyon. You will leave Zion Canyon | | | | writer with The Wall Street Journal and a |
| on Highway 9, then turn north on U.S. 89. | | | | marketing communication consultant. He |
| Where U.S. 89 intersects with Highway 12, you | | | | currently teaches a course in good writing |
| must turn right for about 35 minutes to the | | | | and good speaking in Brussels, Belgium. In |
| park’s entrance. | | | | the “I” of the Storm: the Simple |
| | | | Secrets of Writing & Speaking (Almost) |
| For lodging you have two choices. All along | | | | like A Professional, his recently published |
| Highway 12 you will find motels, whose prices | | | | book, is available from Story Publishers in |
| rise the closer you get to the park. They | | | | Ghent, Belgium (storypublishers.be) and |
| have another disadvantage. They are rather | | | | Amazon (amazon.com). |